Post by John Pilling on Jun 16, 2005 12:41:12 GMT
Main Category: Boa
Subcategory: Red tail boa (bci) & Common boa (bcc)
Species: Boa constrictor imperator & Boa constrictor constrictor
Introduction to the Boa Constrictor
There are a few subspecies of the boa constrictor that are notable as a pet. Red tailed boas (boa constrictor) are probably the most common and also the boa constrictor (imperator) as well as other less common subspecies.
It is a very good idea to think very carefully before deciding to buy your pet boa, because as an adult it could live for around 25 + and grow between 8 – 10 feet and they weigh roughly about 45 – 55 Ibs.
These snakes are normally very placid and of good temperament. They are tan or pink in colour with darker cross bands. Their scales are heat sensitive. They tend to be solitary and nocturnal, and are most commonly found in forests, hills and terrains in South and Central America.
If you decide to proceed in buying your snake here is a helpful checklist of what to look for: -
Firm muscular body
Clear bright eyes
Good tongue flicking
Healthy scales
No obvious scars on the skin
Active and alert
When handled, coils gently, then relaxes
Once you have chosen your snake make sure you have the following: -
HOUSING:
A baby boa is generally housed in a glass or wooden (with front opening glass doors) vivarium. When older, it will need a very secure custom enclosure, which you can either buy or make yourself.
A 6 – 8 feet long enclosure is ideal and 2–3 feet wide and 2–3 feet tall. It should be easy to maintain the high temperature and easily be able to be kept clean.
Heating:
Under tank heaters are a MUST for these aquarium type enclosures. Flat heaters attach to the bottom of your glass aquarium and will provide much needed warmth to the bottom of the enclosure. Advanced and custom-made enclosures can use Flex Watt Heat Tape as well.
Do NOT use heat caves or heat rocks! They can and will burn most snakes.
Feeding:
While I believe the ULTIMATE food source for boa constrictors is RATS, the following have been listed as food sources for boa constrictors: Mice, rats, guinea pigs and rabbits. The best feeding rule I can offer is to feed smaller items early. As a guideline, the size of the prey item should not be greater that the girth of the boa at mid body. Don't push the limits on your boa. Newborns should be fed "fuzzy" or just weaned mice or "pinkie" rats. And then graduate with the growth of the snake. If you feed prey items that are too large, you are asking for the boa to regurgitate! This can lead to many health problems, and even regurgitation syndrome.
Larger boas may be better suited if fed rabbits. Some boas would take several large or jumbo rats in order to get enough. In that case one large rabbit would be better. Rabbits can also be order frozen, then thawed the same as rodents.
Handling:
You should always support the boa's body with both hands! Avoid quick and fast movements when approaching the boa. Don't approach directly at the head. Remember they sense heat, so approach at the tail to mid body, and as soon as you move them a little they know it is you and it is safe to get them out. Avoid holding the boa where it restricts its movement. Use one hand to support the head area and the other hand and arm to support the mid to rear body area. Large boas may become frightened during handling if they feel like they may fall. Boas over 6 feet should not be handled alone. Always make sure that a second person is in the room any time you are holding a large boa. Remember for it to remain a docile pet, it will be necessary to handle your boa 2 to 3 times a week.
Sexing:
Stating the sex of the boa is often difficult to determine. Without the proper tools or knowledge to accurately test the boa, everything is a guess. While some people may have good guesses, it is hard to know 100% without the proper testing, this is done by using a metal probe, which is inserted into the cloaca, and in the case of a male, inserted, in the hemipene area. In males, this probe will go in very far, often 10 or 11 scale counts. While in females, the probe may only go in 3 or 4 scale counts deep. Probing should only be done by qualified or experienced herpers, because damage can be done if the procedure is done inaccurately. Popping may also be used on very young boa’s (less then 4 months for best results), however this is not 100% accurate, therefore the snake should always be probed to guarantee the sex.
Bites:
Boa Constrictors DO have teeth, and although these teeth are smaller than most animals, they can be pin sharp. Boas have two rows of teeth on the top jaw, and a single row of teeth on the bottom jaw. These small needle sharp teeth are curved slightly to help hold the prey item and pull it into the mouth. Although baby boas will not hurt us with a bite, an adult boa bite can be extremely painful.
Best substrates:
Newspaper: Readily available but looks a little less visually appealing!
Natural Bark Products: My personal choice and works a treat, only 2 down sides: -
1. Do NOT feed on it, if the snake swallows any of the substrate it could get trapped in the snake’s body causing a painful death!
2. Could lose the snake in it as the snake blends well with it!
Wood Shavings (like aspen and beach bark chips): -
Again very good looking visually only downfall again being that if the snake ingests any of it again it would be tragic!
There are a few others out there but this is the main choice!
Enjoy:
After thinking through all the above and still saying yes I can make sure these points are met, then good luck and I hope these points will help you through hard times, they certainly are amazing reptiles and enjoy them!
Many thanks goes again to Dave for most of this material, couldn't have put it together this quick without you.
Subcategory: Red tail boa (bci) & Common boa (bcc)
Species: Boa constrictor imperator & Boa constrictor constrictor
Introduction to the Boa Constrictor
There are a few subspecies of the boa constrictor that are notable as a pet. Red tailed boas (boa constrictor) are probably the most common and also the boa constrictor (imperator) as well as other less common subspecies.
It is a very good idea to think very carefully before deciding to buy your pet boa, because as an adult it could live for around 25 + and grow between 8 – 10 feet and they weigh roughly about 45 – 55 Ibs.
These snakes are normally very placid and of good temperament. They are tan or pink in colour with darker cross bands. Their scales are heat sensitive. They tend to be solitary and nocturnal, and are most commonly found in forests, hills and terrains in South and Central America.
If you decide to proceed in buying your snake here is a helpful checklist of what to look for: -
Firm muscular body
Clear bright eyes
Good tongue flicking
Healthy scales
No obvious scars on the skin
Active and alert
When handled, coils gently, then relaxes
Once you have chosen your snake make sure you have the following: -
HOUSING:
A baby boa is generally housed in a glass or wooden (with front opening glass doors) vivarium. When older, it will need a very secure custom enclosure, which you can either buy or make yourself.
A 6 – 8 feet long enclosure is ideal and 2–3 feet wide and 2–3 feet tall. It should be easy to maintain the high temperature and easily be able to be kept clean.
Heating:
Under tank heaters are a MUST for these aquarium type enclosures. Flat heaters attach to the bottom of your glass aquarium and will provide much needed warmth to the bottom of the enclosure. Advanced and custom-made enclosures can use Flex Watt Heat Tape as well.
Do NOT use heat caves or heat rocks! They can and will burn most snakes.
Feeding:
While I believe the ULTIMATE food source for boa constrictors is RATS, the following have been listed as food sources for boa constrictors: Mice, rats, guinea pigs and rabbits. The best feeding rule I can offer is to feed smaller items early. As a guideline, the size of the prey item should not be greater that the girth of the boa at mid body. Don't push the limits on your boa. Newborns should be fed "fuzzy" or just weaned mice or "pinkie" rats. And then graduate with the growth of the snake. If you feed prey items that are too large, you are asking for the boa to regurgitate! This can lead to many health problems, and even regurgitation syndrome.
Larger boas may be better suited if fed rabbits. Some boas would take several large or jumbo rats in order to get enough. In that case one large rabbit would be better. Rabbits can also be order frozen, then thawed the same as rodents.
Handling:
You should always support the boa's body with both hands! Avoid quick and fast movements when approaching the boa. Don't approach directly at the head. Remember they sense heat, so approach at the tail to mid body, and as soon as you move them a little they know it is you and it is safe to get them out. Avoid holding the boa where it restricts its movement. Use one hand to support the head area and the other hand and arm to support the mid to rear body area. Large boas may become frightened during handling if they feel like they may fall. Boas over 6 feet should not be handled alone. Always make sure that a second person is in the room any time you are holding a large boa. Remember for it to remain a docile pet, it will be necessary to handle your boa 2 to 3 times a week.
Sexing:
Stating the sex of the boa is often difficult to determine. Without the proper tools or knowledge to accurately test the boa, everything is a guess. While some people may have good guesses, it is hard to know 100% without the proper testing, this is done by using a metal probe, which is inserted into the cloaca, and in the case of a male, inserted, in the hemipene area. In males, this probe will go in very far, often 10 or 11 scale counts. While in females, the probe may only go in 3 or 4 scale counts deep. Probing should only be done by qualified or experienced herpers, because damage can be done if the procedure is done inaccurately. Popping may also be used on very young boa’s (less then 4 months for best results), however this is not 100% accurate, therefore the snake should always be probed to guarantee the sex.
Bites:
Boa Constrictors DO have teeth, and although these teeth are smaller than most animals, they can be pin sharp. Boas have two rows of teeth on the top jaw, and a single row of teeth on the bottom jaw. These small needle sharp teeth are curved slightly to help hold the prey item and pull it into the mouth. Although baby boas will not hurt us with a bite, an adult boa bite can be extremely painful.
Best substrates:
Newspaper: Readily available but looks a little less visually appealing!
Natural Bark Products: My personal choice and works a treat, only 2 down sides: -
1. Do NOT feed on it, if the snake swallows any of the substrate it could get trapped in the snake’s body causing a painful death!
2. Could lose the snake in it as the snake blends well with it!
Wood Shavings (like aspen and beach bark chips): -
Again very good looking visually only downfall again being that if the snake ingests any of it again it would be tragic!
There are a few others out there but this is the main choice!
Enjoy:
After thinking through all the above and still saying yes I can make sure these points are met, then good luck and I hope these points will help you through hard times, they certainly are amazing reptiles and enjoy them!
Many thanks goes again to Dave for most of this material, couldn't have put it together this quick without you.
